Surfing in Bocas del Toro: What It’s Really Like (The Unfiltered Truth)

So you’ve seen a few Instagram posts about surfing in Bocas del Toro and are wondering what it’s really like? I spent almost 2 months on this small Caribbean island and have some insights to share with you. 

Bocas for me marks the first stop in my Central America backpacking trip. It holds a special place in my heart. Especially Red Frog Beach, but we’ll get to that later. 

Here’s what I’m going to cover in this blog: when to surf in Bocas, what breaks are suitable for each surf level, and a couple of personal stories, like how I got scammed.  

So, do me a favour and don’t make the same mistakes I did on my first surfing trip. 

Keep reading…

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How To Get To Bocas Del Toro

If you don’t know yet, Bocas del Toro is an archipelago in the Caribbean Sea off Panama’s coast. It’s about a 1-2-hour flight from Panama City or a 10-hour bus ride. 

If you’re short on time, book a flight and save yourself some headache. A short flight from Panama City to Bocas Del Toro Airport and you’re in surf paradise.  Please note that an additional surfboard fee applies; check with your airline.

The other option is to take the bus. To do that, you have to take a first bus or taxi from Panama City Airport to Albrook Bus Terminal. You need to buy the ticket on the spot. 

As far as I remeber you can’t book online. 

It’s an overnight bus ($35). You’ll arrive in Almirante, take a taxi ($1) to the docks, then take a boat ride ($6) to Isla Colon. All in all, it should cost ~$41 and take ~12 hours. 

If you continue your travel to Costa Rica, there are plenty of shuttle services from Bocas to San Jose.

When to Surf in Bocas del Toro?

The best time for surfing in Bocas del Toro is typically between December and March, when north swells light up the Caribbean side of Panama. This is when reef breaks start working consistently, and you’ll get your highest chance of scoring clean, punchy waves.

This is the most important thing you need to know about surfing in Bocas. 

The Caribbean Sea is a fickle place. It’s inconsistent: flat days are common, and the weather changes quickly.  

Outside of that window, conditions can still surprise you, but you’re gambling more with flat spells and unpredictable weather. 

Best Surf Spots In Bocas Del Toro

Now that you know when to go, let’s talk about where to go and, perhaps more importantly, where not to go based on your current skill level. 

Isla Colón

First off, let’s talk about the main island.

This is the biggest island in the archipelago and is home to the most consistent breaks. It’s also the most exposed one, so even when there’s very little swell, you can find something here.

The two main breaks are- 

1. Playa Paunch

Located about 10 min taxi ride from the town center, this is the “main break” of the island so to speak. It’s always working, even on smaller days, and it’s always crowded. It’s a reef break with a predominant left, but the right is also fun. 

When the swell is bigger, you’ll understand why it’s called Paunch. It will literally punch you on the reef if you miss the take-off. It becomes hollow, heavy, and fast. In these conditions, it’s best saved for more advanced surfers. 

But on any given day, it’s a manageable intermediate+ wave. Definitely one of the best surf breaks on the island. 

2. Playa Bluff

Playa Bluff is farther from the town center (approx a 20-minute taxi ride). It’s a slabby beach break that works only when the elements align.

You need light offshore winds, medium swell, and the right sandbar for it to be perfect. But even then, it’s shifty, very technical, and fast wave. Plus, it’s known as the surfbaord grave yard. There’s literallt hundreds of broken boards used to decorate the beach. 

If you go there, be mentally prepared that it might happen to you. But just know, if you catch a wave there, it will all be worth it! 

There are additional breaks on the main island, but I won’t list them here. I will say that locals are very protective of their “secret” spots and some have broken glass on the beach to deter tourists, so keep your eyes open. 

Isla Carenero

Isla Carenero is about a 30-second boat ride from the main island; you can literally swim to it. But please don’t; a taxi costs $1, so it’s not worth it. 

Because of the island’s angle, most of the swell hits only the northern part of the island.

1. Carenero Point

Carenero island is a taxi boat hop from the main island. In fact, the water taxi will drop you off at the surf point, and you can arrange for it to pick you up after a couple of hours or so. 

The wave is a long peeling left-hander that can get hollow in some sections on the right day. It can get crowded when the waves are good, but generally it’s manageable, as there are a couple of take-off points along the wave, and sometimes they don’t connect.  

2. Old Man’s

Further down, the main point is a reef break that is perfect for beginners. When the swell wraps around the main point and hits the reef, it crumbles and breaks gently, making it a perfect spot for longboarders or beginners. 

As I said, this won’t be another ultimate surf guide, so I will stop here with the surf spots in Bocas.

The Part Of Surfing Bocas Del Toro No One Tells You About

Here’s the thing most blogs/videos miss. 

You’re often dependent on boats or taxis to reach surf spots. 

So this means: 

• Paying for transport. And if you’re there for a long period, it adds up!
• Relying on others and coordinating transport. 
• Dealing with schedules that don’t always match the swell. 

Unless you’re staying in one of the more expensive places near Playa Paunch, you most likely need a taxi to get to any surf spot on the Island. But even then, you can walk to the surf spot, but you need a taxi to go to town, so it’s a trade-off. 

For the first two weeks, I stayed at Skyull’s House. A really cool surf hostel just 5 min walk from Playa Paunch. It was great that I didn’t have to take a taxi every time I surfed there, but eventually I had to move, as it was a bit too crowded for the price you pay per room. 

Which brings me to the next section of this blog. 

Where To Stay In Bocas Del Toro For The Best Surf

Here’s the hard truth. There is no perfect location if you want a bit of everything. 

Most people stay in the main town; there are many hostels and private accommodation options to choose from, and the nightlife is just a short walk away. Which can be a problem if you’re a light sleeper (not me, though). 

For quieter nights, you’ll need to get closer to Playa Paunch or Playa Bluff. There are many accommodation options tucked away in the jungle, yet a minute’s walk from the beach. Those tend to be more expensive but can be worth it if you want proximity to the waves and a chill vibe. For budget friendly option, check out Skully’s House.

Another option is to stay on the other islands. They offer a more laid-back vibe, but that also means there are fewer things to do at night. 

A Quick Reality Check for Surf Travelers

If your entire trip depends on surfing every day, Bocas can disappoint you.

If you’re flexible and enjoy:

• Exploring islands
• Slowing down
• Mixing surf with travel experiences

Then Bocas makes a lot more sense. Just keep that in mind.

 What To Do In Bocas Del Toro When It Gets Flat

Even if there are waves, at one point or another, you’ll need to rest. Let your body recover from the endless paddle and wipeouts you’ve stacked on it. 

Bocas has a lot to offer. From diving, hiking, or just chillin under a coconut tree in one of the many sand beaches it has to offer. 

Hike To Red Frog Beach

Red Frog is located on Bastimentos Island. To get there, you’ll need a water taxi.

Once you’re there, you can follow the track that leads to Wizard Beach, and from there walk to the end of the bay and follow the track until you reach Red Frog Beach. Back then, there was no clear track so we had to figure out the way.

Alternatively, you can take a water taxi to Magic Bay and walk a short hike to Red Frog Beach.

If you’re lucky enough, you’ll see the famous red frog, a tiny poisonous frog the island is famous for, and you can also see monkeys and beautiful birds. And if things really align, it can inspire you to get your first tattoo, like I did. 

Go Island Hopping and Watch Dolphins

Now, to be honest, I didn’t do this activity. I tend to avoid crowded places with marine animals; it doesn’t feel natural. But, the dolphins are free and wild so if you never seen any, it’s a great chance to see wild dolphins. Also, if you’re on a tight schedule, it’s a great tour to do.

You can also snorkel and visit some of the remote islands of the archipelago. Think empty white sand beaches, perfect for your Instagram feed. 

Hit The Boat Party! 

Yes, boat party!!! 

Honestly, it’s pretty insane. It starts in the afternoon and goes all the way into the sunset. Nothing much to write here, if you’ve ever been to a tropical party, you know the feeling. 

If you haven’t, then you must go to this one. 

Conclusion

Surfing in Bocas Del Toro is a must-have on the bucket list. Not because of the epic waves, which often are very epic. But for the combination of warm weather, a paradise-like atmosphere, and a mix of waves on tap. 

Plan for at least 10-14 days to increase your chances of scoring good waves. Anything under 10 days is somewhat risky. Your best bit on any given day is Playa Paunch, but if you’re after some barrels, check out Playa Bluff.

Plan around flat days and keep a positive energy, you’re on the island time now. Enjoy!